First you cross on the ferry from the Fish Market in Dar es Salaam to Kigamboni. Take the main road south as you come off the ferry. At a junction in the road you will see a large yellow gas station. Take the fork in the road to the left. When the tarmac ends, keep going. At the end of this long and bumpy dirt road you will come to a small Tanzanian village.
Hopefully you’ve been counting, because as a matter of fact it’s the fourth village you encounter along the road. Turn left at the small sign that points to an almost invisible track behind a tiny hut. The sign is just before the village ends. Now find your way up a very long hill to the ridge that overlooks the Indian Ocean. Drive to the first gate and you will have reached the Kasa Beach Hideaway.
When the large gate opens you will be greeted by a friendly staff that will carry your luggage to your bungalow while you relax after the long drive with a refreshing glass of juice. Take in all you see in front of you … seashells hanging on strings from the trees, an incredible tree house, stone pathways leading to the summit’s edge, and a quiet, blue-water bay.
The peach-colored bungalows, each built with loving hands and vision, are made out of dead coral. They are well-equipped with large beds, mosquito nets, and basic bathrooms with a bathtub or shower. You’ll also find a private courtyard, and a wonderful terrace overlooking the ocean. Lying in bed, we could hear the crashing waves and view the sea with the billowing sails of traditional dhows on the horizon.
You can follow a pathway down a sloping hill (a two-minute walk) to the Indian Ocean. We were the only people at this breathtaking beach, and seemingly the only ones in the entire world at that moment. That is, until the staff brought beach beds and cold drinks. When it’s time for lunch, you can have a four-course meal on a 40-ton dhow that has been pulled up on the beach.
Kasa Beach is considered the best in the region … even better than the beaches of Zanzibar, many say. In Swahili, “kasa” means turtle. Sea turtles use the beach to hide and protect their eggs. You will find nests marked along the beach. The area is also noted for its diverse bird life.
Kasa Beach Hideaway has a wonderful restaurant overlooking the sea. All meals are included in the price of your bungalow. They are usually European-style and between four and six courses, served on white tablecloths.
On some evenings, the staff serves a barbecue dinner on the beach, where small torches mark the way along the path to the sea. Before you in the sand is the light from a bonfire and overhead, the light of the moon.
It really doesn’t get much better than Kasa Beach anywhere on earth. Whether you have two days for a holiday or months for travelling, find your way to the Kasa Beach Hideaway. You won’t be disappointed and—like us—you will yearn to find your way back.
If you go:
Kasa Beach Hideaway is just 40 kilometers south of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. You can take a taxi from Dar es Salaam or across the ferry in Kigamboni. By car, take the main road from Kigamboni all the way to Kasa Beach.
Kasa Beach Hideaway
Telephone: +255 22 2772 766
Cell: +255 754 618 163, +255 754 697 408
Khari LaMarca, an ITWPA member, is a travel writer based in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Trained as a social-cultural anthropologist and international health advisor, her areas of first-hand knowledge and experience span Africa, the Middle East, the Mediterranean Region, and the countries of the Indian Ocean Rim.
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